Working Together in Prosperity

Article by Ross Pays

When we left you last time we were all aboard at Barbados and ready to set sail for our first of six Caribbean Islands, St Lucia. All the ports of call had been planned quite well with the ship making a figure of eight around the islands and docking normally between 7 and 8 in the morning leaving a full day until 5 or 6 in the afternoon before sailing again. St Lucia was not an exception and we were due to arrive at 8 in the morning. The first night had been a good one and to make the morning more relaxed the night before we had decided to take advantage of the in cabin breakfast service – a good choice on offer and as much as we wanted –although it was limited to cold ‘continental’ style.

Sharp at 8 a tap at the door and a smiling steward delivered tea, coffee, fruit juice cereals, yoghurt, fresh fruit and toast and marmalade enough you would think to keep us both happy, but we manage to get into a heated discussion as to who had asked for the toast and marmalade – there were only two pieces of toast you see. Oh well tomorrow we would have to order a double helping –toast for two not for one.

So it was time to disembark and explore St Lucia just north of the Equator, one of the Windward Islands, in the middle of the Eastern Caribbean chain of islands and about 90 miles northwest of Barbados. As with most of the Caribbean the main language is English although many also speak French and Spanish. Kwéyòl, St Lucia's second language is also widely spoken by the St. Lucian and is not just a patois or broken French, but a language in its own right.

Just 27 miles long, 14 miles wide with a combination of high mountains, forests, low lying lands and beaches St Lucia is  a small island with a population of just 50,000 – the six cruise ships in harbour just about added 50% to the population for the day! A central mountain range runs the length of the island, with peaks ranging between 1000 and 3145 feet. Forests dominate the mountains, while jasmine, scarlet chenille and wild orchids provide splashes of colour to the lush green slopes. The two towering volcanic cones on the southwest coast, Gros Piton (797m) and Petit Piton (750m) are one of the Caribbean’s most famous landmarks. The volcanic origin of the island provides visitors with an opportunity to visit a “drive-in volcano” and take a dip in the reputedly therapeutic Sulphur springs.

Aswell as the drive into the cauldron of the volcano and a trip around the island the ship excursions on offer included a quad bike safari, horse riding and a beach trip with snorkelling on the reef. We opted for a more relaxed and sedate trip into the rain forest. As we left the ship the photographers were as always ready and at the end of the gangway we posed next to a couple of brightly dressed Rastafarians with dreadlocks down to their thighs. 

An hour’s drive into the centre of the island gave us a chance to see some of the small villages and locals and it was interesting to see that the island seemed to be much more natural, there were some cultivated areas but most of the island was still forested, diverse and green rather than the cultivated and relatively tamed fields of Barbados.
The rain forest tram ride is one of St Lucia’s newest attractions and a fleet of open gondolas each taking ten seated passengers in ‘bus’ fashion and a guide takes visitors high into the canopy and up to nearly 600m. The experience is not to be missed as one rides smoothly and comfortably above the tree tops the guide points out the different trees and flowers including a number used for spices and medicinal purposes. There are apparently a number of small animals in the forest - but no primates and the main fauna interest is the birdlife   A habitat for rare birds and plants, a world where lushness is overpowering, where elusive parrots squawk overhead, orchids scent the air, hummingbird buzz near brilliant heliconia and climbing palms encircle tall trees like lovers in a parting embrace.

It has taken centuries for St Lucia's tropical island rainforest to become its current well-developed refuge. Nonetheless, two thousand years ago, Arawak tribes associated the dark woods with evil spirits and for centuries the forest remained untouched and the spirits the Amerindians feared evolved into island folklore. Amongst the most enduring symbols of the rainforest is St Lucia's National bird, the Amazona Versicolor or the Jacquot as it is affectionately known, once an endangered species, with protection its numbers are now increasing.

As the gondola reaches its highest point there is a stop where the more adventurous can trek back down or even more adventurous can take a “zip ride” on pulley swings down a series of rope lines – on the way up we had wondered why the peace of the canopy was occasional penetrated and disturbed by rebel yells and a few screams, from our vantage point we could see the reason and the intrepid “zippers” launched themselves into space and a headlong rush through the treetops. We took the safer way down!

With feet back safely on the ground, just for a change, rum punch and banana daiquiri awaited us! Time for a wander around the tourist shop on the way out and it was interesting to see that most of the souvenirs on offer were locally made and themed, including spices from the rain forest and local produce then back to the ship.

As we sailed from St Lucia we climbed to the top deck looking down on the island and the throngs and thongs spread out around the lido deck. A Carnival Cruise cocktail of the day in a special souvenir glass in hand we leant over the rail watching St Lucia slip away into the sunset as the reggae band stuck up on deck.

“Elegant” evening with the chance to dress up a bit getting into the penguin suit was already a bit of a struggle a week in Barbados and just one night aboard had already had a shrinking effect on the waistband! and there were still 6 days to go. Before dinner we tried the Latin band hoping for a chance to show off our tango but had to settle for a Samba – there may only have been a few dozen Puerto Ricans on board but they certainly made the most of the chance to strut their stuff.

We enjoyed an excellent dinner in the Pacific Dining room and staggered along to the main theatre for a very professional and energetic show. Just time for a nightcap before an early night - it was after all 1am and we had to get up early the next day for Antigua! As we passed the lido deck the party was in full swing and our American cousins seemed to be gearing up for an all night session of line dancing and versions of the Macarani. The ship was one big party but we were done and we gratefully reached the peace of our cabin and fell into bed with the tiniest of rocking motion with the only sound the gentlest distant throb of the engines sleep came quickly and easily.   

 Next stop Antigua pronounced ‘Anteega’ after an in cabin breakfast, - this time with extra toast! – we headed for the gangway and our tour. The full name is Antigua and Barbuda twin Islands plus the tiny uninhabited island of Redonda, now a nature preserve, all under the same government and part of the Eastern Caribbean financial alliance and using the Eastern Caribbean dollar as well as accepting the US dollar. Another extensive choice had been on offer, including a catamaran trip to Barbuda and more quad bikes, snorkelling and beach horse riding. Rather fancied the horse riding on the beach but we had found out that it was a pretty tame affair with such a mixed group it was just a slow walk and no chance to gallop through the surf and there were going to be a good number of children as well. We settled for the ‘Best of Antigua’.

A cheerful tour guide lead us through the bustling harbour to our bus, lots of other cruise ships in evidence again and this time literally thousands of ‘gin palace’ yachts, with more than a few having helicopter landing pads, as well as plenty of relatively humble craft probably only worth six figures rather than seven or even eight!   Our guide was full of anecdotes and jokes and had great pleasure assuring the American passengers that they drove on the right side of the road –which was the left side.

The island itself is more like Barbados with the natural vegetation having been cleared for sugar plantations which sadly are now in little demand, quite a shanty town look and a church of one of innumerable variations of Christianity on every corner.

The real religion of Antigua though is cricket! Cricket is played everywhere and at any time, though official matches tend to be held on Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays. The cricket season lasts from January to July and is interspersed during most seasons with regional and international matches. The Antigua Recreation Ground, which became in 1980-81 the 52nd international test venue, is one of the most exciting places in the world to observe a match. The local crowd is extremely devoted to the game, and the facilities themselves are outstanding.

The most celebrated of Antigua's sports legends; however, is Viv Richards, who ranks among the very greatest cricketers of all time. Richards' international career lasted from 1974 to 1991, and during the middle years of that career the "Master Blaster" led a West Indian team that dominated world cricket. Richards is deservedly adulated on his home island today: his bat has been enshrined in the Museum of Antigua and Barbuda, and Richards himself remains involved in the Antiguan, West Indian, and International cricket scene. Spinnakers Beach Bar and Restaurant in Dickenson Bay is the home of the Vivian Richards Cricketeer Club and a good place to catch a glimpse of the man himself.

The strategic location of Antigua and the natural harbours and a protective, nearly unbroken wall of coral reef the steady winds all pointed towards Antigua as a British Naval Base. It would made a perfect place to hide a fleet. And so in 1784 the legendary Admiral Horatio Nelson sailed to Antigua and established Great Britain's most important Caribbean base. Little did he know that over 200 years later the same unique characteristics that attracted the Royal Navy would transform Antigua and Barbuda in one of the Caribbean's premier tourist destinations.

The signs are still there, they just point to different things. The Trade Winds that once blew British men-of-war safely into English Harbour now fuel one of the world's foremost maritime events, Sailing Week. The expansive, winding coastline that made Antigua difficult for outsiders to navigate is where today's trekkers encounter a tremendous wealth of secluded, powdery soft beaches. The coral reefs, once the bane of marauding enemy ships, now attract snorkelers and scuba divers from all over the world. And the fascinating little island of Barbuda -- once a scavenger's paradise because so many ships wrecked on its reefs -- is now home to one of the region's most significant bird sanctuaries.

Our first stop though was the block house the old explosive and munitions store 175 m above the Atlantic looking down over sheer cliffs where gigantic waves broke against the rocks. Far down below was the Antiguan home of Eric Clapton a huge complex obviously fairly inaccessible as befits one who values his privacy. Oprah Winfrey and Eddie Murphy are amongst other celebs that have a pied a terre on Antigua where they can rest their weary heads away from the madding crowds and with locals who are happy to leave them to their own devices – as long as they bring the cheque books.

A short drive across the backbone of the island takes us to our next photo stop at Shirley Heights the most southerly point and the principal fortification of the British Fleet which had been stationed far below us in English Harbour. Now instead of pride of Nelson’s  fleet laying at anchor we could see the thousands of gleaming white yachts we had passed on our way to the bus and our own flagship the Carnival Victory looking less impressive amongst the dozen or so other huge cruise liners in the harbour.

The last stop was Nelson’s Dockyard built in 1784 to provide a base for a squadron of ships patrolling the West Indies and maintaining England’s sea power. Our bus guide handed us over to a dockyard guide who to say the least lacked the enthusiasm and cheerfulness of her colleague! Plenty of facts but delivered in a bored sixteen year old shop assistant voice that did little to arouse the interest of the listeners, fortunately the surroundings themselves had a  special feel of history and is was not difficult to imagine the bustling naval port that once it had been.

English Harbour is now fifteen square miles of National Park. The harbour was gradually abandoned in the 19th century and closed in 1889. Today it has been completely restored and is the only surviving Georgian dockyard in the world. There are a number of buildings in the dockyard some of which have been converted into museums, restaurants and shops including the impressive Clarence House built for King William IV but the final part of the tour brought us to the 18th century Admiral’s Inn where guess what – you’ve got it –complimentary Rum Punch and Banana Daiquiri were on offer.

Once more on the lido deck we waved good bye to Antigua as dozens of frigate birds, looking for all the world like a flock of Pterodactyls with hardly a wing beat, circled in the air currents set up by the ship in the same way they must have done as Nelson and his fleet set sail to patrol the Leewards. As we clear the harbour we pass the airport far below us giving us what must be a pilot’s eye view as they ferry some of the rich and famous to their island paradise homes. Tomorrow was another day and we were on the way to St Kitts.

Intoxicating natural beauty, sunny skies, warm waters, and white sandy beaches combine to make St. Kitts one of the most seductive spots in the Caribbean. Christopher Columbus first spotted St. Kitts in 1493, when it was populated with native tribes, but the Europeans did not colonize until the British arrived in 1623. Its strategic location and valuable sugar trade led to an advanced and luxurious development that was among the best in the Colonial Caribbean.

Nature lovers will want to take advantage of the various tours through lava formations, tropical forest areas, and seaside lagoons. Boating tours and scuba diving expeditions are also favorite activities. Plantation homes have been transformed into grand, intimate inns. Quaint shopping areas and beautiful Colonial architecture draw visitors to the tiny towns. If a quiet vacation in a luxurious and alluring corner of paradise is what you seek, you'll find it on St. Kitts.

All the usual activities were on offer but we opted for something we thought would be different the  St. Kitts scenic railway national tour, the narrow gauge St. Kitts Railway offers visitors to the two-island Federation of St. Kitts & Nevis one of the most beautiful train rides in the world.
The scenic railway takes passengers on a 3-hour tour that makes a 30-mile circle around St. Kitts, with 18 miles by narrow gauge train and 12 miles on sightseeing buses. Built between 1912 and 1926 to transport sugar cane from the island’s sugar plantations to the sugar factory in the capital city of Basseterre, today the “Last Railway in the West Indies” provides visitors an unusual opportunity to experience the scenery and culture of this unspoiled country.

Leaving Needsmust station, the train is soon surrounded by fields of sugar cane. The railway winds around the slopes of Mt. Liamuiga, its volcanic tooth piercing the clouds, and along the Atlantic Ocean. There are hidden black sand beaches, and hundreds of crumbling and overgrown plantation estates. The train crosses numerous tall steel girder bridges, with one stretching 300 feet across a deep ravine, or “ghut”. Sweeping vistas offer up the nearby islands of Nevis, St. Barts, St. Maarten, Saba, and St. Eustatius.

The journey immerses travelers into St. Kitts village life. Passing Mansion Village, with cliffside piggeries, and beyond are fields of pineapples. At Saddlers Village passing within inches of papaya, guava, and banana trees and  backyards are strung with rainbows of billowing laundry. All along the route the locals stop in their work, and school children run out of classes as the train goes by there are smile and waves everywhere.

Parts of the journey are a little unnerving clacking over what appear to be rather rickety wooden bridges and alongside the rocky cliffs where huge waves roll in and break against the rocks. Shaking its way along the rails a local choir comes to each car singing a broad repertoire of songs from I shot the Sheriff to Ava Maria and the Beatles and while they are not singing, Bob Marley comes from the loud speakers interrupted from time to time by the train announcer who for some reason like to say everything three times in a different order. “Ladies and gentlemen if you look to your left you will see Saddlers Village---- Saddlers Village, Ladies and Gentlemen is on your left--- on your left Saddlers Village, Ladies and Gentlemen”. The train has two storeys, downstairs air-conditioned with smoked glass windows and up stairs the place to be with overstuffed cushions on wooden benches. Every car has washrooms which are always handy when part of the pleasure of the tour is a constant flow of  yes you guessed it Rum Punch and Banana Daiquiri some home made coconut ice and banana cake.

At La Valle Station, passengers transfer from the train to sightseeing buses and complete the circle tour on the Island Main Road. The route passes under the silent guns of Brimstone Hill Fortress, and through a dozen small villages and towns that dot the Caribbean Sea side of St. Kitts before returning back to the city of Basseterre and the cruise ship port.

Another day another tour and tomorrow San Juan - Puerto Rico almost America and where most of our fellow passengers will be replaced! That will have to wait for the final part of our Eastern Carribean tour along with St Thomas, Dominica and a return to Barbados from where on to the somewhat less exotic Gatwick!

Barbados (Part 1 of the Caribbean Odyssey) - Click Here to view the article.

Caribbean Continued (Part 2 of the Caribbean Odyssey) - Click Here to view the article.

Caribbean Continued (Part 4 of the Caribbean Odyssey) - Click Here to view the article.

  Ross Pays is the Chairman of The FAA based in Cyprus. FAA offer advice on wills, tax registration services, home, health and car insurance, investment services and tax planning, including Inheritance Tax Planning, together with full accounting services.

Visit Ross Pays website at www.rosspays.com, Telephone 00 357 25 82 58 76, Fax 00 357 25 33 35 93 or e-mail ross@rosspays.com
Initial consultations are free and no obligation and fee quotations will be provided in advance for all services.