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On a recent visit to
Swaziland Conor Hughes a business partner suggested that an interesting
venue for our working weekend was Reilly’s Rock Game Park Mlilwane
Hill near Mbabanne.
Swaziland
has in recent years been denuded of much of its
big game but there are a number of devoted locals who are importing and
building the stock. Some of the larger parks now have elephant and big cats
as well as Rhinoceros and a huge range of grazers. Reilly’s Rock
however has limited acreage and supports a smaller number of species but
includes many Wildebeest (or Gnus), Zebra, Wild Boar, and several different
Antelope; there are also Hippopotamus and Crocodile in the rivers and
lakes. Perhaps the most spectacular wildlife is the smallest! the amazing
variety and number of bird life.
"You're going to get
married, so you'll be needing a house. I need an ox-wagon. If you buy me an
ox-wagon I'll build you a house."
The offer proved too much
to refuse for Mickey Reilly, a member of the notorious Steinackers Horse
Regiment during the Anglo-Boer war of 1899-1902. As a young Irish
adventurer, Reilly had settled on the Mlilwane Farm to start a successful
tin mining career managing the McCreedy Mines and embarking on a mixed
farming operation. He built himself a modest mud hut at the top of the
Mlilwane Hill in 1908, which was struck and gutted by lightening - a common
occurrence in the area, which coined the Swazi name "Mlilwane"
meaning "little fire".
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Reilly then built a second
mud hut a little further down the hill, which again suffered the same fate.
Taking ‘if at first you don’t succeed’ as a motto a third
attempt to build a home, that would last at least until the weekend, was
made, this time a wood and iron shack even further down the hill to avoid
the lightning strikes!. On Mickey's passing, the Reilly family converted
Mlilwane into
Swaziland
's first game reserve, governed by a non-profit
making Trust. Billie and her sister, both widowed by this time, spent their
later years in the tranquillity and safety of Reilly's Rock.
Two full years were spent creatively fulfilling the task of tasteful
renovation and adding the next generation's personal touch in many subtle
ways. The result is a top quality, comfortably rustic, historically
colonial masterpiece.
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The accommodation at Reilly’s Rock is very limited consisting of a
bungalow with a twin and a double bedroom sharing a private lounge with an
open fireplace for the cool winter nights (which being South of the equator
means May to September). There are also four double/twin bedrooms in the
main house. All the guest rooms have en-suite facilities and are very
comfortable.
The pleasure of Reilly’s Rock is in the ambience however; the
visitors main lounge conjures visions of Hemingway and the Raj. Wonderful
heavy wooden furniture fashioned, amazingly, from disused railway sleepers
of all things, hard to visualise the elegance and luxury that has been
conjured up from such unlikely origins, put as baldly as that, but
incredibly atmospheric. Overstuffed lounge chairs and sofas to sink into
and the upright
Chesterfield
styles that soon have one imagining the safari
suited White Hunters sipping their G&Ts whilst surrounded by clouds of
cigar and pipe smoke and discussing the days adventures and the herds of
wildlife slaughtered! Nowadays of course the only shooting welcomed is with
a camera.
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he surrounding area of small mountains and hills, including Execution Rock
so named for its less friendly use in previous times, is quite spectacular
and the Park will arrange a Landover Safari for a late afternoon game
drive, arriving for sundowners overlooking the River and watching the sun
sink below the skyline, the trees silhouetted in incredible detail on the
crest of the mountains in the backdrop.
The main camp of the park further down the hill from Reilly’s Rock
offers more accommodation, in rather more basic style, but also provides
game drives and treks on horseback around the park. The most enduring
memory for visitors will beyond doubt be enjoying the wonderful full
breakfast served on the terrace of the lodge while as the sun rises over
the valley and the mist clears, the grazing herds below appear below as the
most brilliant selection of birds come down to feed at the tables provided
and a cheeky pair of hornbills, that the staff reared by hand, join the
meal, muscling in on the toast.
It may not be the most rugged of Safari living or even the most prolific
game park but the overall Reilly’s Rock Experience should not be
missed by anyone who has the opportunity.
Ross
Pays is the Chairman of The FAA based in Cyprus. FAA offer advice on wills,
tax registration services, home, health and car insurance, investment
services and tax planning, including Inheritance Tax Planning, together
with full accounting services.
Visit Ross Pays website at www.rosspays.com, Telephone 00 357 25 82 58 76, Fax 00 357 25 33 35 93 or
e-mail ross@rosspays.com
Initial consultations are free and no obligation and
fee quotations will be provided in advance for all services.
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